10-Day Premium Kokoda Pilgrimage

Anybody can – and many do – walk in off the street, fill out an application, pay a small fee and become an authorised Kokoda tour operator.  There are no due diligence checks.  They do not have to have a registered company.  They do not need a Public Liability insurance policy.  They do not need satellite phones, VHF radios or medical kits - and if something bad happens they have no assets to reclaim.

Trekkers should therefore take note of the old Latin proverb of Caveat emptor which means ‘let the buyer beware’ – as it is applicable to the current management system put in place by the Australian Government.

PNG Prime Minister, Peter O'Neill recently initiated a review of the Kokoda Track Authority.  The current management system, put in place by the Australian Government during the period 2009-2012 has not worked.

Prior to the year 2000 the Kokoda Trail was only crossed by small numbers of hardy adventurers.

A rapid increase from 76 trekkers in 2001 to a peak of 5621 in 2008 transformed it into Papua New Guinea’s premier tourism attraction.

In 2003 the PNG Government established a ‘Kokoda Track (Special Purpose) Authority (the ‘KTA’) as a statutory government body of the Koiari and Kokoda Local-level Governments to manage the emerging Kokoda trekking industry and ensure local villages across the trail received shared benefits from it.  Unfortunately it has not worked out as it was envisaged.

In 2004 a PNG expatriate CEO was appointed to manage the KTA with a part-time secretarial assistant.  During the next four years trekker numbers increased 255% from 1584 in 2994 to 5621 in 2008.

In response to a public outcry over a threat to mine a large part of the Kokoda Trail in 2006 the Australian Government entered into a ‘joint’ agreement with the PNG Government to assist in developing a case for the Owen Stanley Ranges to be listed as a World Heritage site.  Responsibility was delegated to the Department of Environment in Canberra.

This led to a vertable army of taxpayer funded environmental officials, academics, contractors and consultants to 'assist' PNG manage the emerging Kokoda trekking industry.  For most it was their first trip to PNG.

In 2009 an Australian CEO was appointed to the KTA on an eye-watering salary package.  It was his first time in PNG and he did not trek across the Kokoda Trail until just prior to his departure in 2012.  He was supported by a 10-fold increase in staff and a multi-million dollar budget.

Despite this injection of resources annual trekker numbers declined by 44 per cent from 5621 in 2008 to 3156 in 2012!

A desktop study titled ‘Kokoda Track Authority Strategic Plan 2012 – 2015’ was developed over a long period of time.  It is instructive that not a single one of the five strategies or 33 key performance objectives contained in the plan were achieved.

The Australian CEO departed towards the end of 2012 without leaving a single management protocol in place for his PNG successor - no draft legislation; no management database; no campsite booking system; no integrity in the trek operator licensing system; no safeguards for the welfare of PNG guides and carriers; no audit system for campsite owners; no trail maintenance plan; no community development plan; etc. etc. etc.

The PNG management team were left with an unworkable model which has led to a call for a review by Prime Minister O'Neill.

They do not understand the Principles of Commemoration and know little about the wartime history of the Kokoda campaign.

Trekkers should be aware that they currently have no protection from the KTA.  There is no integrity in the licensing system.

Adventure Kokoda is not a member of the KTOA.

We declined the invitation to join the Kokoda Tour Operators Association (KTOA) which was established to protect the interests of Australian trek operators at the expense of PNG guides and carriers.

In 2017 they prevented a PNG motion calling for backpack weights to be reduced; employment conditions to be improved; and for guides and carriers they employ to be provided with sleeping bags, mats and a uniform; from being tabled.  

Overloading of local carriers is a common practice by many Australian tour operators as a means of keeping their costs down. We do not believe that PNG guides and carriers should have to sleep on wet ground because they are not provided with such essential items of comfort.

The exploitation of guides and carriers practiced by KTOA members would not be tolerated in Australia and it should not be tolerated in PNG.

They treat PNG laws with contempt by failing to ensure their members register as a ‘Foreign Enterprise’ in accordance with their Investment Promotion Authority Act.  As a result they operate illegally within PNG.

They also treat their trekkers with contempt by failing to advise them that their travel insurance policies may be voided if they trek with an illegal operator.

According to the IPA PNG (Investment Promotion Authority) website, Adventure Kokoda is one of only two Australian trekking companies who operate legally in PNG as a registered ‘Foreign Enterprise’ with the IPA.  Adventure Kokoda also provide for:

• a maximum allowable weight of 18 kg which was the maximum weight allowed for 'fuzzy-quzzy angles' during the Kokoda campaign; (which means we have to engage more carriers);
• a full trek uniform - cap, shirt, shorts
• a sleeping bag;
• a sleeping mat;
• wholesome meals - equivalent to what we provide for our trekkers;
• a gratuity equivalent to one day's pay at the end of each trek; and
• a 'Walk-Home Allowance' of PNGK250 to allow our guides and carriers to walk back to their villages after each trek.

In addition to this we engage a PNG medic with a full medical kit to look after their specific medical needs across the trail.

If our guides or carriers suffer serious illness or injury during their trek we arrange for them to be evacuated by helicopter and treated at the Port Moresby Private Hospital - they receive the same care, attention and treatment as our trekkers.

The best time to trek Kokoda is during the 'dry' season from April through to October.  Trekkers can still trek comfortably during the wetter periods provided they are equipped with proper gear.

Most evacuations from the trail are due to gastro-intestinal problems which cause severe vomiting, diarrhoea and chronic dehydration.

Unhygienic handling and preparation of food is the most common cause of the gastro problems which lead to medical evacuations.  Most evacuations result from trekkers who eat vegetables prepared by local villagers. 

To avoid this we carry all of our own food which we purchase from supermarkets in Port Moresby.

We actively discourage our trekkers from eating food prepared in villages as we cannot guarantee the standard of the local hygiene.

Some operators rely on village food to save costs - If the operator you choose includes ‘village food’ as part of their catering plan it might save them money but it could lead to your evacuation from the trail.

If you lead a sedentary lifestyle you will need a minimum of three months physical training and preparation.

You should start with a complete medical check-up then consult with your local gymnasium to prepare a personal training program aimed at increasing your aerobic fitness level. As a guide we recommend you start with minimum of 45 minutes of aerobic activity (walking, power-walking, jogging, cycling, tennis, etc) at least four times per week.

You should aim to increase your work rate by ten percent each week after that.

Your training needs to include extensive walking, preferably in a hilly-area, carrying a weighted pack. In the last month of your training you need to be capable of walking at least 10 km daily, carrying 3 to 5 kg more than the weight you expect to carry on your trek.

Think of your training as a deposit in your fitness account – everything you do between now and the trek will pay a dividend on the trail.  If you haven’t made enough ‘deposits’ into your fitness account you will have to go into ‘debt’ on the trail – and debt of any kind is always painful!  

You can’t cheat yourself on Kokoda – if you have done the work you will complete it OK – if you haven’t you will be a candidate for an emergency evacuation!  

39th Battalion preparing for the Kokoda campaign on the Sogeri plateau in 1942